Spud on the Run https://www.spudontherun.com We’re just a couple of dreamers who are in love and leaping into the next adventure. Sun, 28 Apr 2019 12:07:08 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.2.1 https://www.spudontherun.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/cropped-Logopit_1510608247348-1-32x32.png Spud on the Run https://www.spudontherun.com 32 32 Manchester’s street art – Exploring the Northern Quarter https://www.spudontherun.com/2019/04/26/manchesters-street-art/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2019/04/26/manchesters-street-art/#comments Fri, 26 Apr 2019 10:33:30 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1386 Manchester is famous for it's ever-changing street art and industrial architecture. Join us as we explore all that Manchester's street art has to offer.

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Walking around Manchester’s city centre offers a gallery of constantly changing artwork, which lights up back street allies and complements the city’s industrial architecture. Manchester’s street art changes so frequently that from week to week you can never be sure what you will find. This makes walking in the city a constant exploration of discovery.

The wonderful weather that blessed us for Easter weekend allowed us the opportunity to walk unaided by umbrellas or hoods so that we could fully enjoy the height-defying street art that wraps its self around many a building in Manchester’s city centre.

But first, a pit stop!

Before any adventure truly begins, fuel is needed for the road ahead! We headed over to the wonderful local bakery, Pollen, which specialises in sourdough bread and viennoiserie baked goods. It’s set along the waterway of New Islington, offering great views with a baked treat and delicious coffee.

Pollen Cafe - pastries and coffee

If you don’t have time to sit in and enjoy in house, don’t worry, it’s easy to take away in a brown paper bag for later… just look at some of the mouth watering loaves on offer!

Pollen Cafe - loaves of bread to buy

Manchester’s Street Art

With our tummies full and our blood racing with caffeine we set off in search of Manchester’s street art, and where better to go than the Northern Quarter? This bohemian area is famous for its street art, as well as its vast array of independent stores, tucked away bars, and music venues.

Our Planet

We’ve been chomping our way through Netflix’s new show, Our Planet, which is narrated by Britain’s national treasure, Sir David Attenborough, so our first stop was see this wonderful piece of work just off Thomas Street. If you haven’t watched it yet we’d strongly urge you to – it’s a stunningly filmed piece of work exploring our diverse world and the tragic impact that human activity is having in even the more remote locations.

We’ve heard that there’s street art like this to promote the show in cities all around the world, have you seen any? If so, please share them with us, we’d really like to see them!

Worker bees at the Koffee Pot

The Koffee Pot is somewhat of an institution in Manchester, cafe by day, bar by night. It’s seems only fitting that they have the city’s symbol, the worker bee, adorning the side of their new location on Oldham Street. It’s eye-catching and pretty damn wonderful all round – but then again, Spud are avid bee lovers, so we would think that!

Manchester Street Art - worker bees
Manchester’s symbol, the worker bee, is emblazoned across the side of local institution the Koffee Pot’s residence

For the love of music with Vinyl Revival

The Northern Quarter is well known for its independent music shops, and Vinyl Revival on Hilton Street stands proud with this bright tribute to music across its shutters. Usually this would be hidden away while the store is open during the day, but we were treated to a rare Bank Holiday glimpse.

Vinyl Revivals shutter art - people enjoying music
A rare Bank Holiday glimpse of Vinyl Revival’s shutter

Back streets and alley ways

To get a look at some of the most experimental and thought-provoking pieces of street art in the Northern Quarter you need to venture from the main streets.

No pitta pocket is safe from this hungry embrace!
These stained glass windows are stunning!
Manchester Street Art - street art on a car park corner wall
There’s something on every hidden corner to discover
Manchester's back streets art - owl
Manchester Street Art - girl wearing beanie peers out
These haunting eyes found us from beneath the spring green
Manchester Street Art - Loving older couple in an embrace has been tagged over
We just managed to capture this embrace before it was overtaken by new artwork
Manchester's allies are adorned with bright artwork and symbols
Bright colours assault you down unassuming back streets
"B******s to Brexit" makes an unsassuming spot in the Northern Quarter
Amongst a mess of tags hides a political message

More than street art…

Despite the wave of building work taking place across Manchester, deliberate care has been taken to maintain and celebrate the city’s older architectural legacy. The Northern Quarter is no exception, and history and modern life meld together here. These are just a handful of our favourite examples from our Easter walk.

We’re excited to explore the Northern Quarter again to see what else we will find! Have you visited Manchester? If so, please do send your photos to us, we would love to see them!

If you’re looking for inspiration on what to do next, why not take a look at our other Manchester and UK blog posts!

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Top 5 tips for London on a budget https://www.spudontherun.com/2019/01/31/london-on-a-budget/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2019/01/31/london-on-a-budget/#comments Thu, 31 Jan 2019 16:12:42 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1218 London is known to be an expensive city to both live in and visit, but it doesn't have to be! Check out these 5 top tips for London on a budget!

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We lived in London for four years and had a blast while still managing to save up some travel pennies! While it’s true that it can be an expensive city, if you’re savvy there are many ways to cut your spending and still have a great time exploring London on a budget. Here are 5 of my top tips for doing just that, whether you’re living there or just visiting for the weekend.

Pouring a pint of beer

1. A free pint

Do you believe that “there’s no such thing as a freebie”? Well I’m here to prove you wrong! There are SO MANY pubs in London, and many of them have mailing lists that you can sign up to via their website. To say thank you, quite a few of them will send you a complimentary drink!

To get you started check out brewery chains such as Young’s or Fullers, and Pitcher and Piano are also generous in their emails too, especially in the run up to Christmas!

2. Cheap Travel

If you are visiting London from somewhere in the UK and are travelling by train, make sure you book in advance to make the most of cheap travel. The best cheap tickets crop up around 12 weeks before the travel date, so being organised and planning in advance really does pay off!

Many people don’t realise that if you have a railcard (such as a 16-25 or senior card) you can get it added to your Oyster card. Just pop along to one of the ticket information kiosks in a London train station. Just like with trains, this will get you a third off your travel throughout the city (peak travel rules apply, see website for full details). Bonus tip: Before you buy a new card, check Google to see if there are any active voucher codes, you can usually get a cheeky 10% off the annual price this way!

Why not cut down your travel costs completely! Some of London’s most magical features are tucked away and hidden down tiny little streets. Put on some comfy shoes, lose the map and get lost in the city – who knows what you will find!

Soup at the dining table

3. Cheap or even FREE meals

We had many a free, or heavily discounted, meal in London. How?! We got a second email address (so we didn’t clog up our usual one!) and used it to sign up to a bunch of mailing lists for restaurants that we visited regularly or just fancied the look of. By being on their list, we’ve been secret shoppers (or should I say eaters?), won various edible prizes, got a bunch of free birthday treats, and made the most of loads of voucher codes. We were able to try a huge variety of different restaurants and cuisines that we might not have had the pleasure to do if we’d been paying full price.

Twitter is also a great place to check for special offers – there are often January deals to entice you off the sofa, or new opening discounts to watch out for.

4. Free entry to attractions and places of interest

No matter what the weather is like in London, there’s a lot to do on a tight budget. If it’s sunny you can explore the city’s array of parks and canals (our favourites are the grounds around Alexandra Palace, or the waterways over near Haggerston) or hide away from the rain and cold while learning all about the dinosaurs, discovering a love of art, or falling in love with history.

Londoners and tourists to the city are spoilt rotten with the choice of free museums and galleries on offer. There are some really famous spots such as the Science Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Tate Modern. If you’ve already visited them, or just aren’t a great fan of crowds (who is?!) there are some lesser known places to explore.

It wasn’t until we were just about to move away from London that we realised that the beautiful Royal Courts of Justice (also know as London’s High Court) were open to the public and completely free to explore. Then over a year after we moved, I discovered that the Museum of London also has free entry!

If you’re looking for less galleries and museums, and more bird’s eye views, why not get booking a free ticket to visit the Sky Garden (at the top of the modern building shown above) – it’s a close rival to the Shard!

Dancer on stage from Photo by Leon Liu on Unsplash

5. Cheap theatre and gigs

I absolutely love the theatre, and after being dragged along to so many shows I think Phil has developed an appreciation for it too. If it wasn’t for the following sites though, I really don’t think we would have been able to afford so much variety!

  • Showfilmfirst – these guys get free or heavily discounted tickets for a range shows, gigs and films across the UK and it’s free to sign up.
  • LoveTheatre – These guys are just a third party ticket selling site but we’ve had some really great special offers from them for West End shows.
  • The Audience Club – Based just in London, Producers and Venue Managers give the Club a limited amount of complimentary tickets to help promote a show. It costs £5 to join for the year, and this money is donated to the Club’s charity of choice. Be aware that it’s not always possible to join, they like to manage the member numbers to make sure everyone has chance to get a ticket. If this is the case, just add yourself to the waiting list.
  • MyBoxOffice – Another membership site which you have to pay to become part of. It costs £15 for the annual membership and then you get access to range of shows across the UK. It’s very rare that they have anything from the West End, but it does occasionally happen!
  • TodayTix – Another third part ticket selling site which doesn’t involve any membership. They get some great special offers for a wide range of shows on the West End!

I hope our top five tips to London on a budget has given you some inspiration for your next trip to the city, or maybe your next day off work if you live in London.

If you have your own tips and tricks for making the most out of London on a budget please share them with us in the comments, we always love to hear your stories!

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After the adventure comes to an end https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/10/23/after-the-adventure/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/10/23/after-the-adventure/#comments Tue, 23 Oct 2018 05:55:03 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1187 What happens when the backpack is emptied and stored away, after the souvenirs are displayed?

Find out what it's like to come home after the adventure.

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I’ve written and deleted this first sentence a half a dozen times. In fact, I’ve attempted to write this post on several occasions since we returned to the UK in May, but the words would never flow. During that time, I have neglected Spud on the Run, I haven’t done justice to some of the amazing experiences we had in Latin America (or the great stuff we’ve done in the UK since we returned) and I regret that and plan to change it. Firstly though, I need to write this post, clear the blockage of words that are stuck in my ‘throat’… or should I say keyboard?

Travel bloggers write about adventure. We talk about the wonderful people that we’ve met, paint the sunsets with our words, and attempt in earnest to share with you the beauty of the world in which we live. We want you to love this little rock of ours a little bit more after reading what we have to say.

I’m really proud of the success of Spud on the Run. What started out as a tiny little blog site to keep our parents and friends calm (“you’re going to COLOMBIA?!”), grew into something that has hundreds of views a month and thousands of social media followers. We’ve had lots of engagement from people that we’ve never had the pleasure of meeting to say that they’ve been touched by a post, or found one of our guides really useful. I find a great satisfaction in knowing that something I’ve written has been able to help someone make their own adventure a success. It makes all those hours struggling with questionable WiFi connections to upload new articles and photos worthwhile.

Now, it has to be acknowledged that travel bloggers aren’t that great at talking about coming home. What happens when the rucksack is emptied and stored away, the favourite photos are printed and the souvenirs are loyally displayed on the shelf? Dare I ask… What happens when the adventure comes to end?

For those of you who have followed our blog from the start (catch up on our leaving London blog), you will know that we booked a one way ticket to Colombia back in 2017. While we didn’t have a plan, adamantly refused to have one in fact, we did have a budget and two very open minds. We gave up well paid jobs, our great little find of an apartment in London, and dedicated a chunk of savings to our adventure. Was it all worth it? Of course! We had an incredible time, learnt a great deal about ourselves and our relationship and fell in love with the world even more.

But… there’s always a but isn’t there?

Eight months after our plane left for Bogota, we came home. While I can’t speak for Phil, I know that all of a sudden I felt lost. I mourned Latin America like I’d lost a dear friend; the vibrant colours, the energy of the people, the variety of nature, even the simplicity of just being surrounded so thoroughly by the Spanish language. Suddenly it was all gone and it just felt like a hazy dream.

Now, I’ve travelled before, I was ready for the reverse culture shock but this felt different. Our approach to our time in Latin America was different than to past travelling. We took our time, moved on slowly and paused to really appreciate where we were and the people that we were with. Our time in Latin America changed us, we became better people, we learnt a lot about how we should prioritise things in life, making sure that only those things that matter the most are put to the forefront. We talked about how we were excited to come home, to start the next chapter of our lives with this new found appreciation… at times I know that I personally sounded like I’d swallowed a whole load of those overly positive and completely corny life quotes that you see scattered across the internet. But (there’s that ‘but’ again!), when we actually did return to the UK, without even realising what was happening, we began to squash ourselves back into the moulds of ourselves that we had left behind. We forgot about that bigger picture we were meant to focus on, and we forgot about our new found priorities.

I don’t think we had appreciated how difficult it would be to return to the UK. Our parents kindly put us up while we got back on our feet, but this meant that we were living separately after eight months of continuously being together. We had lots to decide, like where we would live next, not just the house but the location as we were no longer tied to London, and if we wanted to return to the same careers, or try something new. Being apart from each other made it even more difficult to make these big decisions. We came back and we were so incredibly happy, and that happiness felt like it was slipping through our fingers as the days went by.

Now, I know I’m probably coming across as an ungrateful moaner. I’m not, I promise. I’m really grateful that we were privileged enough to be able to go on such an awesome adventure in the first place, and I’m so thankful to our parents who helped us to get sorted. We made some great memories during the exceptionally sunny UK summer, and spent valuable time with our family and friends. I wouldn’t change that.

While everything felt like it was in a state of flux, I couldn’t focus on the blog. I wasn’t able to write about our travels because I was missing it so much and my head was full of all the different things we needed to organise. My numerous half written blog posts were moved over so that I could focus on an array of job applications and interview preparation. The time spent on editing and loading photos to the website became time to catch up with friends. It was like our travels had never happened.

Would we do anything differently? No, not all. We don’t regret any of the choices that we made. We should have been easier on ourselves when we returned though. I think, for me at least, I’d expected to return and have some kind of epiphany, I thought that I’d have all the answers and had this idealised vision that everything would just click into place. I got back and realised that this wasn’t going to happen in the timeframe I’d expected and I panicked. After giving up so much of our lives to go travelling, and then the adventure coming to a close, I guess I had a bit of an identity crisis. Who was I now? What did I want to do next? I felt a lot of pressure to get the right answer first time around.

It took us over five months to find our new home together, and in the grand scheme of things that’s not very long. I’m really happy to be able to tell you that we’ve just recently moved to Manchester and we’re both starting new jobs. While it might not be as warm as the Peruvian coastline, or as brimming with natural wonder as the Ecuadorian Amazon jungle… it is a new kind of adventure all of its own (with less mosquitos! WIN!). While Phil lived in Manchester for six months a few years ago, the city has changed a lot and there is so much for us to explore together. I’m looking forward to sharing it with you – there’s an adventure to be explored in every day if you look for it. I’d never really given much thought to living in Manchester before, but now that I’m here I’m starting to learn what a great little part of the world it is. I’m also learning how to implement the lessons and realisations from our trip into everyday life, it’s certainly a little harder in the UK winter compared to being laid on a beach, but certainly not impossible.

So, back to the question at hand – what happens after the adventure ends?


Well, another one begins, of course!

Sunsets on South America


Do you have experience of coming home after living or travelling abroad? We’d love to hear your story, please do share it with us in the comments below!

If you’d like to know more about our adventures, check out our other blog posts.


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A visit to Bempton Cliffs – Searching for puffins in England https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/06/29/visit-to-bempton-cliffs-puffins/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/06/29/visit-to-bempton-cliffs-puffins/#comments Fri, 29 Jun 2018 08:34:39 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1140 Welcome to the first Spud article based in the UK, Spud’s homeland. Recently, Vicky got the opportunity make a visit to Bempton Cliffs, a nature reserve run by the RSPB on the East Coast of England. During the spring and summer months over 250,000 sea birds make these cliffs their […]

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Welcome to the first Spud article based in the UK, Spud’s homeland. Recently, Vicky got the opportunity make a visit to Bempton Cliffs, a nature reserve run by the RSPB on the East Coast of England. During the spring and summer months over 250,000 sea birds make these cliffs their home. Here Vicky talks about her visit and the search to find the comical little puffin among the chaos.

What are the Bempton Cliffs?

Bempton is a small village nestled in East Yorkshire, which is famed for the nearby chalk cliffs which run for several miles along the east coast of England. The breath-taking Bempton Cliffs are one of the many nature reserves lovingly run by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), which are open to visits from the general public.

During spring and summer, the cliffs are a popular attraction for both birds and bird lovers alike. Over a quarter of a million seabirds (yes, you read that right, a QUARTER OF A MILLION) make the vertical cliff face their home from March all through to September. During this time they mate and rear their young, forming the largest mainland seabird colony in the UK.

Our visit to Bempton Cliffs

Our car journey from South Yorkshire took around two hours, and afforded us with wonderful views of the British countryside. After all Spud’s traveling, I still can’t think of anywhere else I’d rather be than in the UK on a crisp, sunny day in spring. The British are notorious for complaining about the weather, but all that rain we have to put up with turns the land around us into patchwork carpet of luscious greenery.

Driving along we passed tiny little churches, sheep grazing in the open with their lambs, fields full of wheat, vibrant yellow rapeseed, deep red poppies, and villages with unusual names such as Bainton, Burton Agnes and Haisthorpe.


Arriving a little after 11am, we were surprised to see just how busy the site already was. Despite planning a mid-week visit outside of the school holidays, the main car park was full and we had to put the car in the overfill area – don’t worry, it’s still really close by to the entrance.

Having never visited before, we were worried that the car park signalled the site would be crammed, but it’s such a big place and we never felt overwhelmed with people. If you can, I would suggest to avoid weekends and go as early as possible, it was becoming noticeably busier after lunchtime.

Walking around site

This leaflet from the RSPB shows the different routes you can take around the site. We did the Clifftop Walk, shown in red. The leaflet estimates that it takes 20 minutes to walk to Jubilee Corner, the last viewing point, which is probably about right if you walk directly there. For us, it took a lot longer as we stopped at every opportunity we could to look for puffins and to marvel at the sheer number of birds around us.

What did we get to see during our visit to Bempton Cliffs?

The views over the cliffs are stunning. We were blessed with a clear day and could see a long way out to sea and up and down the coastline.

Many, many birds make Bempton Cliffs their home during the spring and summer months. Here are just a very small handful of the species we were able to spot with our limited knowledge on birds!


Ok, ok, so the main reason for our visit (and that of many other visitors!) was the potential to see puffins. Just look at the photo below, who could refuse the opportunity to glimpse these unusual looking little birds!

RSPB Bempton Cliffs had been posting great photos on Twitter of puffin sightings in the run up to our visit, so we were hopeful that we would see one too. We weren’t disappointed! The small birds made us work for our sightings, but during our two hour visit we got to see not one, not two, not three…. But SIX puffins nesting along the chaos on the cliffs, as well as many more flying out at sea.

Puffin stood on cliffs during visit to Bempton Cliffs

When trying to spot them, look out for their bright little orange legs when they’re stood along the cliffs. They are harder to spot when out flying, but as their wings flap up to 400 times a minute, look for the little black dots going past in a blur!

The puffins can be seen at Bempton Cliffs from around April to July.

Puffin facts during visit to Bempton Cliffs

Throughout the Bempton Cliffs site the RSPB staff have placed amusing information boards about the site’s visitors.


As the largest bird species to make Bempton Cliffs its home, the gannet is one of the easiest to spot. With its sheer size and beautiful white feathers, it really does stand out in the crowd. It’s actually pretty amazing that gannets are able to squeeze their big bodies onto the rock face for such long periods of time!

Gannets nesting during visit to Bempton Cliffs

Razorbills & Guillemots

Spotting the difference between a razorbill and a guillemot can be tricky for even the most experienced of birdwatchers. As a total newbie myself, my only advice for telling who is who is by paying close attention to the beak. Whilst from afar both of these lovely black and white seabirds look very similar, their beaks are actually quite easy to spot. Razorbills have chunkier beaks that seem to curve off at the end, whilst guillemots have really pointed little beaks.

Razorbill at Bempton Cliffs

The razorbill’s beak is much thicker than the guillemot’s and curves at the end

Guillemot birds during a visit to Bempton Cliffs

As you can see, guillemots have smaller, pointy beaks

It’s not all about seabirds…

We weren’t lucky enough to see them, but sightings of dolphins and porpoises have been recorded on clear days. It’s also possible to see hares, stoats and weasels in the meadow areas if you are patient enough.

They do have a small garden area with a pond and insect hotel, which is a great place to spot other bird species who don’t live out at sea. We went at the start of the Russia World Cup 2018 and they have this prediction point set up (shown in the photo below). When England are playing, they put the flag of the opposition on the next feeder and see which the birds predict to win! Just a little bit of fun from the RSPB staff.

World Cup predictions during visit to Bempton Cliffs

The Feeding Station of Dreams set up at Bempton Cliffs to predict the outcome of the England team’s matches

Curious Crow greets us on our visit to Bempton Cliffs

This curious crow welcomed us to the Bempton Cliffs RSPB site

Planning a visit to Bempton Cliffs

The Bempton Cliffs reserve is beautiful, and worth a visit whether your a season bird watcher or not. Here is a quick overview of how to plan a trip, and you can check out the reserve’s site for more information.

Entrance fees

The entrance is £5 per adult and this includes car parking. If you have an RSPB membership entrance is free.

If you have children with you, the first enters for free and anymore are charged at £2.50 a head.

Top tips

  • Pay attention to the knowledgeable RSPB volunteers who stand at points throughout the site. They are happy to chat with you and will point out any note-worthy sightings, including the lovable puffin!
  • Keep up to date with RSPB Bempton Cliffs Twitter and Facebook accounts as they will let you know what’s been recently sighted. This will give you a better understanding on what you can expect from your day.

What to pack

  • There is a cafe onsite with hot and cold drinks and snacks. We’d recommend taking some water with you for when your walking around.
  • There isn’t a lot of protection on the cliffs from the sun or the wind, so take your sun cream, a hat (make sure it’s secure!), and something to keep you warm.
  • Make sure to take a fully charged camera or phone, the site is beautiful and you will definitely want to get some photos!
  • If you have a pair of binoculars, it will make those puffin sightings a lot easier! If you don’t have your own, you can rent them from reception for £5. There are also volunteers stationed along the coastline with large telescopes that you can take a peek with.
  • If you’re an RSPB member, don’t forget to take your membership card for free entrance.

Once you have finished your visit, the coastal town of Bridlington is just a short drive away. Go there for a quaint British seaside experience, complete with some infamous fish and chips. If, like us, you prefer something a little different to eat, we popped into the small independent North Man Coffee for a super tasty veggie burger.

Burger from Northman Coffee

If you’re interested to read more from Spud on the Run, take a look here for our other posts.

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A day trip to Las Posas Azules from Taxco https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/04/14/posas-azules-taxco/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/04/14/posas-azules-taxco/#comments Sat, 14 Apr 2018 21:26:23 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1098 Las Posas Azules makes a great day trip from the hilly, winding streets of Taxco, Mexico. Here we explain what you can expect from the pools, what to pack, and how to get there using public transport. If you are visiting Taxco, we thoroughly recommend that you make time to […]

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Las Posas Azules makes a great day trip from the hilly, winding streets of Taxco, Mexico. Here we explain what you can expect from the pools, what to pack, and how to get there using public transport. If you are visiting Taxco, we thoroughly recommend that you make time to go swimming in this naturally-formed haven.

What are Las Posas Azules and why should you visit?

Las Posas Azules roughly translates to ‘The Blue Pools’ in English, and we can honestly say that they live up to their name. Just outside of the small village of Atzala, the pools are a naturally-formed haven. Their blue waters contrast with the rocks and foliage to make a beautiful sight.

If you are visiting Taxco in the Mexican state of Guerrero, give your calves a break from the town’s crazy hills and go for a splash in these cooling waters. Skip to the bottom of this page for detailed travel directions from Taxco to Las Posas Azules.

At the entrance

Whether you arrive by private or public transport, you will get dropped off right next to the entrance of the pools. The little ticket office is about 5 minutes from here and the entrance is 30 pesos per person. The pools open at 9am, and you can stay for as long as you want. You can also leave and return during the day, just let them know at the office as you leave.

From the office, it’s another five minutes to the first pool, which is the lowest of the six. Make sure to take time to look around as you walk, the trees and the mountains are stunning.

View of mountains whilst walking to Posas Azules Taxco

The short walk from the ticket office to the pools gives you chance to admire the view

The pools

In total there are six pools at the site, and the first that you come to is the lowest. As this one is the most accessible, it tends to be the busiest. Families with children relax and play in the shallow waters here. As you climb higher the pools become quieter.

Children playing in the first pool at Posas Azules Taxco

The lowest pool is the most accessible, and is therefore the busiest with families and children

The paths between the pools get a trickier as you go further up. By the last pool there’s just a few pieces of wood and a rope to help you haul yourself up!

A quiet pool at Posas Azules Taxco

The higher the pool, the quieter it is!

The facilities

There is a toilet right next to the ticket office which costs five pesos. While there are free toilets closer to the pools, these paid ones are by far the nicest and worth paying for on the way in/out.

There are small vendors selling food and drink just outside the site. We were stuffed from breakfast and didn’t actually eat anything during our visit. Although we can’t recommend anything specific, the food consisted of typical Mexican snacks (tacos, quesadillas, gorditas… etc.). The prices were aimed at locals not tourists and so looked very reasonable.

Our visit

We really enjoyed our visit, the pools are absolutely beautiful. While I’m sure many people would be able to stay the full day, we were there for around two hours before heading back to Taxco. This gave us enough time to paddle in the waters, explore all six pools, and enjoy the stunning views.

We visited on a Friday, yet despite it being a weekday, there were still a fair few people there with us. To avoid the crowds, go on a weekday and get there as early as possible as it was definitely getting busier as the day wore on. The weekends are by far the busiest times, when local Mexicans go to cool off with their families after the working week.

We found out about the pools completely by chance, and I don’t think they are widely known about by international visitors. When we went, there was just us and a group of four young guys, everyone else was Mexican. It was really nice to see something that was being enjoyed by locals and wasn’t overrun by tourists.

What to pack

  • As I mentioned, there are toilets so you can avoid that horrible damp feeling on the journey back to Taxco by taking a towel and a spare change of clothes. Don’t forget to put a carrier bag in for your wet clothes!
  • The mountains provide a fair amount of shade, but as the sun moves round some of the pools are in the direct sun. Make sure you have plenty of sun cream and a hat to avoid some nasty sunburn!
  • There are vendors selling drinks, but make sure you take some water for the bus ride there to help you keep hydrated during the warm journey.
  • You will need small notes and change to pay for the buses and the entrance fee.
  • The rocks can get pretty slippy around the pools, and it’s pretty treacherous in parts as you climb to the higher pools. Make sure you have shoes with a good grip on the bottom to help you keep your balance.

The path between the lower pools at Posas Azules Taxco

There are paths between the lower pools…

Climbing by rope to the highest pool at Posas Azules Taxco

… but by the last pool, you will have to do a little bit of climbing!

Travel directions – Taxco to Las Posas Azules

Combi-buses pick up from outside the Coppel Plateros department store on De Los Plateros, the town’s main road (map here).

We arrived at the Coppel building at around 9.35am, and found a bus straight away. Unfortunately we had to wait until we had enough people leave, so we didn’t actually depart until 10.10am.

Our hostel had told us that the drive would take around 30 minutes, but it was actually closer to an hour, and we arrived at 11.05am. The driver will take you all the way to the entrance of the pools.

We weren’t too upset that the drive was longer than expected because it gave us more time to admire the stunning views. The journey takes you round the windy mountain roads, through tiny little towns, and so the time passed by very quickly!

It cost 25 pesos (£1) per person, each way.

To return, the buses leave hourly, on the half hour, from the point where you get dropped off. There are also a small number of taxis dotted near the entrance. If you don’t want to wait for the bus back, we overheard four Mexican guys get quoted 200 pesos for the journey to Taxco. This would a pretty economical option if there is a group of you.

If you would like more inspiration for your trip to Mexico take a look at our other blog posts. We spent three months in this wonderful country, and have lots of suggestions for off the beaten track activities as well as detailed travel details to help you move around the country with ease. 

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The children’s Spring Parade in Taxco https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/04/05/start-of-spring-taxco/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/04/05/start-of-spring-taxco/#respond Thu, 05 Apr 2018 16:10:04 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1068 It was by complete chance that we came across the children’s parade to welcome Spring (primervera) in Taxco, Mexico. We were walking through the streets when we heard the music and saw the crowds. Little did we know that this would be the cutest parade we’d ever seen! Spring is […]

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It was by complete chance that we came across the children’s parade to welcome Spring (primervera) in Taxco, Mexico. We were walking through the streets when we heard the music and saw the crowds. Little did we know that this would be the cutest parade we’d ever seen!

Spring is my favourite of all the seasons. It’s the time where everything begins to awaken after the cold, dark winter months. During our travels in Latin America over the last six months, we have become out of sync with the seasons. It’s because of this that the first day of Spring nearly passed us by.

We had just had a really filling breakfast of chilaquiles (a traditional Mexican dish of fried tortillas, cooked in green or red salsa until they soften), and were dragging our bodies through the winding, hilly streets of Taxco to wear off some of the food load.

Find the Children’s Spring Parade in Taxco

As we were coming in to towns main square (or zocalo), we noticed the start of the cutest parade we have ever seen! The schools around Taxco had all come together to celebrate the first day of Spring, and we couldn’t resist sharing our photos with you!

Spring in Taxco - welcome sign

“Welcome Spring”

Ladybirds in Taxco parade for spring

Even ladybirds took part!

Spring in Taxco - children with signs

A colourful variety of animals and fairies took part in the parade!

Start of Spring in Taxco - parents and children

Even the parents dressed up for the parade!

Start of Spring in Taxco - children as lions

“Lions and tigers and bears… oh my!”

Start of Spring in Taxco - cultural heritage

As well as animals and fairies, some of the children were dressed to honour their cultural heritage

A deeper meaning

The parade wasn’t just cute, the organisers had taken time to share important messages with the crowd. Children (or ladybirds, tigers, rabbits…) carried signs declaring the need to conserve water and protect the environment. Hopefully, the children are learning the crucial background to these messages in school, so that they grow up to appreciate the natural resources around them.

A sign declaring the importance of children

“Children are the most important resource in the world, and the best hope for the future”

The procession of the Spring Queens

The only part of the parade that we didn’t enjoy was the procession of the Spring Queens. We aren’t sure if it’s a competition or if there’s just a chosen girl from each school. Lots of cars went past us with children sat on the bonnet, and it mirrored a beauty pageant in many ways – the make-up, the dresses, the ‘professional’ posters that were often displayed on the cars. Sometimes it was quite obvious that the children were tied on to the car, other times we were quite worried for their safety! Maybe that’s just the British health and safety in us!!

Start of Spring in Taxco - spring queens procession

Easter parades in Taxco

Throughout the four days we stayed in Taxco we saw several parades. As well as celebrations for the start of Spring, we saw processions for the lead up to Easter. We were visiting the week before Holy Week, or Semana Santa, as it is called in Mexico. One particular demonstration we saw chronicaled the life of Jesus.

The angels visit Mary during the Spring Parade in Taxco

The angels visit Mary

The teachings of Jesus during the children's Spring Parade in Taxco

The teachings of Jesus

Easter is an important part of the Mexican calendar. The religious festival is marked all over the country, but Taxco is noted as being one of the most elaborate in its activities. At the start of Holy Week the celebrations are joyous, but they get darker towards Good Friday. On this day, a silent procession snakes through the town and some individuals perform self-flagellation (beating or whipping your own flesh) as an act of penance. Part of me is quite relieved that we had already left Taxco by this time, but many visitors, both national and international, flock to Taxco at Easter.

As you can tell, the parades and processions of Taxco vary a great deal throughout the year. No matter when you visit, you’re bound to be in for a treat in this lovely little town!

You can read more about our travels in Mexico here. Have you been to Taxco, or are you planning your own visit? Let us know in the comments below.

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Tlaxcala to Tepoztlán – Travel directions https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/19/tlaxcala-to-tepoztlan/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/19/tlaxcala-to-tepoztlan/#respond Mon, 19 Mar 2018 22:11:28 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1042 Although Tlaxcala and Tepoztlán lie only 60 miles apart from each other on the map, there are two massive (very selfish) volcanoes between the two towns. This means there is no obvious easy route to drive between them, and no direct bus. We had to get quite creative to get […]

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Although Tlaxcala and Tepoztlán lie only 60 miles apart from each other on the map, there are two massive (very selfish) volcanoes between the two towns. This means there is no obvious easy route to drive between them, and no direct bus. We had to get quite creative to get from one to the other by public transport!

Understandably, Mexico City is the glue which connects the towns and cities around it together. The problem is that Mexico City is MASSIVE, with several different bus terminals. We were excited to see a direct bus from Tlaxcala to the capital, but it only went to the east bus terminal, TAPO. This gave us a bit of a headache, as we needed to get to the south terminal, Taxqueña, for the departing bus to Tepoztlán.

We didn’t want to have to face trying to cross Mexico City with our huge bags, so we needed another solution. We knew that there were fairly frequent buses leaving from Puebla’s main bus terminal, CAPU, heading for Taxqueña. After a democratic chat, we decided that we would much rather have a change in Puebla than navigate the busy, over-heated capital city!

Tlaxcala to Tepoztlán (via Puebla and Mexico City Taxqueña)

Leg 1 – Tlaxcala to Puebla CAPU

Local bus, 30 pesos each, 1.25 hrs

We left Tlaxcala by one of the local minibuses at 10.30am. The buses depart regularly from the main central marketplace. You will find a huge open space with lots of minibuses, which can seem extremely chaotic at first glance. It is still overwhelming on your second and third glance so save yourself some time and ask the first driver you come to where you can find a bus for Puebla’s main bus terminal CAPU. Honestly, they are friendlier and much more helpful than they look!

Leg 2 – Puebla CAPU to Mexico City Taxqueña

ADO, 218 pesos each, 2.5 hrs

There are ADO buses leaving CAPU for Taxqueña roughly every hour (sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less). We had just missed one when we arrived, so we had an hour to wait. We passed the time by getting our caffeine fix. Unlike most of the retailers in the terminal, Ruta Café has a actual coffee machine (as opposed to a kettle and instant!) and a decent menu, our americanos were just 23 pesos (less than a £1) each. You can’t really tell from the front, but there is a nice little outside area at the back where you can sit and enjoy your drink away from the terminal’s craziness.

We left Puebla at 12.45pm.

Leg 3 – Mexico City Taxqueña to Tepoztlan

OCC, 130 pesos each, 1.25 hrs

There are OCC buses leaving Taxqueña regularly, and we only had 20 minutes to wait before our 3.35pm departure. Although OCC are run by ADO, they do have their own desk (under the name of OCC) for tickets. You can find them at the far end, by the Pullman de Morelos desk.

Be aware that the the gate numbering system here makes very little sense. There are five gates, which aren’t in a logical order. The fourth one, the one we needed, is tucked away in the middle of the terminal. We had a small panic trying to find it, before conceding and asking for directions.

On the way to Tepoztlán the scenery changed drastically compared to Tlaxcala, where we had woken up that morning. Gone were the welcoming gangs of cacti by the road. The land became lusher, with lots of green trees and rolling hills.

The bus will drop you off at the terminal, which is just on the outskirts of town (see map). We opted to get a taxi to avoid lugging our bags through the hilly windy streets. The taxi to our centrally located hotel cost us 30 pesos (about £1.40) and we thought this was well worth it for convenience.

Alternative Routes

We chose the above route because we trust ADO, they are punctual and professional, and they also have an up to date website where we could check times and routes. With a bit more Spanish than we have, you might find the following options work better for you instead (if they do, please let us know!).

Bus via Mexico City TAPO

If you are braver than us, and know your way around Mexico City, you could get the bus we mentioned from Tlaxcala, to Mexico City TAPO. We think the company is called ATAH, but we couldn’t find a website for them. From TAPO, you would need to work your way across the city to Taxqueña, for the bus to Tepoztlán (same as Leg 3 above).

Bus via Cuernavaca

We know very little about this route, but we saw some mention of it online and it looks like a potential alternative.  We aren’t sure how much time it would save, and we think it might cost a little more than the option that we did.

Leg 1 – Tlaxacala to Puebla CAPU

Exactly as Leg 1 above, get the collectivo minibus from the main market in Tlaxcala.

Leg 2 – Puebla CAPU to Cuernavaca

We saw that a bus company called Autobuses Oro run buses between Puebla and Cuernavaca. Looking at the website the cost is around 290 pesos per person.

Leg 3 – Cuernavaca to Tepoztlán

There are two options here.

The first option is by bus. We know that there are buses running between Cuernavaca and Tepoztlán, but we don’t know anything about the companies, prices, or where they pick up/drop off. Be aware that our copy of Lonely Planet mentions that there have been robberies on the buses along this route, so please use caution. 

The second option is by taxi which can take between 30-60 minutes, depending on the time of day, and we think it should cost around 150 pesos.

Direct taxi

Thinking back, we wished we had enquired about the cost of a direct taxi all the way from Tlaxcala to Tepoztlán. It took almost seven hours door to door on the buses (via Mexico City Taxqueña), and cost around 750 pesos for the two of us. Looking at Google route maps the journey should take about 2.5 hours in a car, so it might be quite close in cost, and would even be worth a little extra for the time saved. This might be an even more economical option for you if you’re travelling as a group.

Hopefully this guide helps, we really enjoyed our time in both Tlaxcala and Tepoztlán and, in our opinion, the journey was worth it. Check out our other posts on Mexico for more inspiration and handy tips!

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Oaxaca Mexico – What to do in this wonderful place! https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/14/oaxaca-mexico-what-to-do/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/14/oaxaca-mexico-what-to-do/#comments Wed, 14 Mar 2018 23:58:29 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=1014 We spent a week in and around the city of Oaxaca Mexico and we fell in love with the place and its people. This is a guide to our favourite things to do, it includes foods to try, trails to hike, nature to admire, and history to learn. Oaxaca was […]

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We spent a week in and around the city of Oaxaca Mexico and we fell in love with the place and its people. This is a guide to our favourite things to do, it includes foods to try, trails to hike, nature to admire, and history to learn.

Oaxaca was our first stop in Mexico, right at the start of a three month long exploration of the country. Oaxaca is a state in Mexico, and, as often is the case, its capital city shares the same name. The state is one of the most indigenous, and unfortunately poorest parts of the country. Despite this, it has a wonderful vibrancy about it, it’s full of colour, culture and history, which its friendly people are more than happy to share with their visitors.

During our one week in Oaxaca we tried to balance our time between the city and the region easily accessible around it. We could easily have stayed for much longer, there is just so much to uncover. We wanted to share with you some of the wonderful things that made our time in Oaxaca so special. These are OUR favourites, but everyone who visits will fall in love with something new.

Food & drink in Oaxaca

Eating is at the top of any Oaxaca list. Food is an integral part of the culture, and the flavours are unique and vivid. Here is a list of some of our favourite places to eat at, and a nod to a few special Oaxacan dishes that we really enjoyed.

Whilst the city is known for having some swanky restaurants, we think it’s unnecessary to splurge too much, in fact we would advise not to. You will find the best flavours in the market places, and small understated kitchens which line many of the streets throughout the city.

Organic Markets –

There are a few organic markets in Oaxaca, they showcase the best in regional cuisine, and source their ingredients from local farmers. The food and drink was high quality and very reasonable priced.

Vendors at La Cosecha Organic Market

La Cosecha Organic Market vendors

Our favourite for trying a range of different specialities was the La Cosecha Organic Market. Here you can discover a range of moles (special Mexican sauces), naturally-coloured tortillas made from a variety of corns, drinks made from agave such as polque and aguamiel, and tajate, which on first glance looks… well… gross… but lift a cup to your lips and you will find that it’s delicious (and apparently full of good stuff for you!).

Tajate drink in the market place

Tajate – get past how it looks and just give this delicious drink a try!

La Cosecha isn’t open on Mondays and Tuesdays, but we got our organic fix at the Rayón Pochote Organic Market. There isn’t quite the same range to choose from, but there are still some yummy things to try!

Bag of fried grasshoppers in market

Throughout Oaxaca, and lots of Mexico, you will see fried grasshoppers. Phil tried them, and said they were crunchy and just tasted of the lime and salt seasoning

Our favourite set meal –

We saw the restaurant Casa Taviche listed in quite a few different places and decided we had to try it. It’s got a great set menu, which changes daily, and is available for both lunch and dinner. It comes with a soup, main, dessert and drink for 85 pesos. Unfortunately there is only once choice a day, which seems to always be with meat. I asked if it was possible to have a veggie option and they made me a pasta dish. Not the most Mexican, but it was delicious and had a Mexican spin.

Collage of dishes from Casa Taviche

We went there twice, each time I had the pasta (the soups and deserts changed as they were always veggie), but Phil enjoyed trying two different traditional Oaxacan meat dishes. There is also a small a la carte menu to browse (it has other vegetarian options).

Our favourite tacos –

We had walked past Tacos Álvaro a couple of times before it was suggested to us by our hostel. It’s a cheap, no frills kind of place, but they know how to make a mean taco! Phil’s favourite was the Al Pastor, and mine was the veggie which came with fried vegetables such as peppers and mushrooms… my mouth is watering now! Along with your meal they brought a huge range of different dips.

Three veggie tacos from Tacos Álvaro

Tacos from Tacos Álvaro

If you’re on a budget and need to get your taco fix, look no further!

Mezcal tasting –

Whilst you will see mezcal on menus across Mexico, Oaxaca is the place to really appreciate it. The distilled alcoholic spirit which is made from a special set of agave plants, around 11 of which are native to the state of Oaxaca.

You will find many mezcalerias dotted across the city, these are specialists in mezcal and you will be able to ask for a tasting flight in most of them. We chose to visit In Situ to try mezcal for the first time. We had a tasting flight with three different kinds of the spirit. The bartender explained to us where each one came from and the type of flavours we could expect. Two of the three were smoky, almost like whiskies, and not as horrible as we had expected!

Three mezcals to try

A tasting flight of Mezcal

We’ve heard great things about the tasting sessions at La Mezcaloteca. You need to book in advance though, and we just never got chance to go.

Eat chocolate, drink chocolate, dream chocolate! –

Mexican cacao is meant to be one of the best in the world, and Oaxacan cacao is at the top of the list. So if you like chocolate, you HAVE to try the hot chocolate in Oaxaca!

We went to Ritos on our walking tour and loved it. We headed straight back there for more the day after. As well as a little cafe, they have a small shop (a few shelves really), where you can purchase chocolate gifts (for friends… family… you… we won’t judge!), including slabs to make chocolate drinks, mole paste, cacao nibs, and honey.

You can also take a walk down Mina street where there are a bunch of chocolate shops. You can see them making chocolate through the window, and if you go in they will often give you samples to try!

Go for coffee –

There are lots of lovely looking coffee shops in the city. We really enjoyed Cafebre. They have a selection of brewing techniques, including aeropress and V60 for 35 pesos (about £1.50) per cup.

Inside the Cafebre coffee shop

Cafebre coffee shop

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

So, whilst you can’t actually eat anything in the ethnobotanical gardens (yeah, I know, disappointing), you will learn a heck of a lot of history regarding food in Oaxaca. You will get to see the agave plants that produce mezcal, and learn why, if it wasn’t for early civilisations in Oaxaca, corn on the cobs wouldn’t be a thing.

Inside Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

The Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

You can’t wander around the gardens independently, you need to go on a guided tour. The tours last two hours (honestly, it’s really interesting and doesn’t FEEL that long), and run three times a week in English (they also have French and German, but you will need to double check the times). The English tours always start at 11am, and run on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Entrance will set you back 100 pesos per person, but in our minds it was £4 well spent!


Hierve de Agua

The name translates to ‘boiled/bubbling water’. These petrified waterfalls were naturally formed and both them, and their beautiful surroundings are breathtaking.

View of mountains and Hierve de Agua waterfalls

The petrified waterfalls of Hierve de Agua

On top of the waterfalls there are pools, formed by bubbling spring water from below.  The water is not heated, but it’s definitely an experience to bathe in a naturally-formed infinity pool overlooking the mountains!

Sierra Norte & the Pueblos Mancomunados

The Pueblos Mancomunados consists of eight villages in the Sierra Norte, which sits within the Oaxaca state of Mexico. Over twenty years ago these mountain villages came together to create an ecotourism project that was of value to both visitors and their communities. Today, a well established network of hiking trails exist, as well as opportunities for horse riding and even zip-lining for the more adventurous.

Read all about our visit to Cuajimoloyas, one of the eight villages, here.

History and Culture

Go on a walking tour –

Oaxaca is packed full of history and culture. To try and make sense of it all, go on a walking tour. We joined John, at Free Walking Tour Oaxaca, and had a great time, learning about Oaxaca’s history and discovering off the beaten track art galleries, eateries, viewpoints and more!

Top tip, skip breakfast! We were introduced to lots of different Oaxacan dishes and really regretted filling up at breakfast time.

Unfortunately, we had to leave the tour early as we were meeting friends to go to Monte Alban, but we would like to say a huge THANK YOU to John for all of his knowledge and patience!

Tours run Monday through to Saturday at depart at 10am from the front of Santo Domingo. The tours are free, but the staff are paid through the tips, so don’t forget to take some cash with you!

Oaxaca Textile Museum –

Oaxaca is famed for its textiles and we enjoyed a visit to the small textile museum in the city to find out a little more about it. A lot of love has gone into the display. My favourite was the exhibition on children. It aimed to convey the love and affection that goes into making textiles and clothing for children. The child dummies were so cute and the way they were dressed was so imaginative, successfully conveying the energy of the child. For example, a scarf, or the bottom of a skirt, was often suspended to make it look like the child was moving.

Entrance is free and it doesn’t take too long to explore, so the museum can easily be combined with a day of other activities.

Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca –

So, we hold our hands up, we never got chance to go to the museum. We heard lots of good stuff about it though, so we would suggest giving it a try if you have time. Apparently, all of the information is in Spanish, so try and get hold of an audio guide at the entrance if you can.

We were told you get an amazing view across the ethnobotanical gardens from the museum.

Santo Domingo church –

A church and former monastery. The monastery buildings and grounds buildings have now been converted into the museum and the ethno-botanical gardens. The church is stunning and is still used today.

Monte Alban –

A short ride away from Oaxaca city, lies Monte Alban, a pre-Colombian archaeological site that belonged to the Zapotecs. It’s a wonderful complex of pyramids that you can explore whilst admiring the views of the city in the valley below and the majestic mountains that surround you.

Oaxaca Mexico Monte Alban view

There are English-speaking guides available to help you make sense of this impressive slice of Mexican history.

This was one of our Oaxaca highlights!

Where to stay

We really enjoyed our stay at Casa Angel, in fact it’s one of the best hostels we been to during our six months on the move in Latin America. The staff were super friendly, everything was incredibly clean, the breakfast was delicious (I don’t know how those ladies make eggs THAT GOOD!), and it’s got a roof terrace with awesome sunset views.

To top it all off, there was a really great crowd staying there and we got chatting to some really lovely people!


Ignore everything you read in blogs and travel guides for a day. Instead, walk aimlessly around the town, and discover it for yourself. Explore the city’s colourful streets, the vibrant markets (don’t miss Benito Juarez!), strike up conversation (no Spanish? Smile, say ‘buen dia’!) with the friendly locals, and get ready to fall in love with Oaxaca!

Oaxaca city photo collage

Have you been to Oaxaca? Don’t be shy, let us know your favourite things to do in the comments below! 

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Exploring the Pueblos Mancomunados of Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/08/pueblos-mancomunados-oaxaca/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/03/08/pueblos-mancomunados-oaxaca/#comments Thu, 08 Mar 2018 02:35:33 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=982 This blog post is all about the Pueblos Mancomunados of Oaxaca. It explains what these villages are, and describes our two night stay in Cuajimoloyas. For travel directions just scroll to the bottom of this page. You can easily go from Oaxaca city independently, without paying the high fees of […]

The post Exploring the Pueblos Mancomunados of Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte appeared first on Spud on the Run.

This blog post is all about the Pueblos Mancomunados of Oaxaca. It explains what these villages are, and describes our two night stay in Cuajimoloyas. For travel directions just scroll to the bottom of this page. You can easily go from Oaxaca city independently, without paying the high fees of a tourist agency.

What are the Pueblos Mancomunados?

The Pueblos Mancomunados consists of eight villages in the Sierra Norte, which sits within the Oaxaca state of Mexico. Over twenty years ago these mountain villages came together to create an ecotourism project that was of value to both visitors and their communities. Today, a well established network of hiking trails exist, as well as opportunities for horse riding and even zip-lining for the more adventurous.

The eight villages are Amatlán, Benito Juárez, Cuajimoloyas, La Nevería, Lachatao, Latuvi, Llano Grande and Yavesí.

Why should you go?

If you enjoy off the grid mountain escapes, and want to make sure your tourism has a positive effect, you should definitely check out the Pueblos Mancomunados. A stay in any of the villages will allow you to witness authentic Zapotec mountain life, and you will be gifted with a warm welcome from these wonderful people.

Our stay in Cuajimoloyas

Arriving in Cuajimoloyas

We spent two nights in the Pueblos Mancomunados, and based ourselves in Cuajimoloyas. Our primary reason for choosing this particular village was that it’s one of the easiest of the pueblos to get to from the city of Oaxaca (travel directions at the bottom of this page). It turned out to be a great decision for many more reasons.

We arrived in Cuajimoloyas on Saturday at around 1pm. Luckily our collectivo (shared taxi) driver dropped us off right outside the tourism office and from there we found it easy to organise a place to stay and to reserve an English-speaking guide for our hikes.

By 2pm, we had checked into our cosy cabana, eaten lunch at the closest comedor – this means ‘dining room’ and was really just a small room in a family’s home – and were ready for our first hike.

View of the cabanas in Cuajimoloyas - Pueblos Mancomunados

These are the tourist cabanas in Cuajimoloyas

Inside the Cuajimoloyas cabanas - Pueblos Mancomunados

Our cosy cabana

Ester, our private guide, met us at our cabana and spent the next two days hiking with us. She was born and grew up in Cuajimoloyas, and as well as helping us to explore the forest trials, she introduced us to her village and taught us a lot about the community’s way of life.

Hike 1: Canyon del Coyote, 3 hours

We had limited time in the mountains and didn’t want to waste a moment, so we booked ourselves on to a three hour hike to make the most of our first afternoon.

The hike was really interesting. Ester introduced us to a whole host of different plants that the villagers use for medicinal purposes. There seemed to be something for everything… cysts, cold sores, cancer, coughs, high fevers, wounds etc.

As we walked we came across lots of little ranches. These are owned by village families and they come here during the day to work. Some of the ranches were for trout farming, growing crops of potatoes or corn, or grazing livestock such as sheep or cows.

Small family ranch in Pueblos Mancomunados

A small ranch for trout farming, owned by one of the families that live in Cuajimoloyas

The hike was was the perfect length for an afternoon adventure, but it wasn’t easy. A lot of it was uphill through the forest, and there were points where we had to scramble over rocks or through caves. When we arrived at the viewpoint however, it made the dirty clothes more than worth it. Just look at that view!

View during Canyon del Coyote hike - Pueblos Mancomunados

The viewpoint during the Canyon del Coyote hike

Hike 2: Mirador Xi-Nudaa, 7 hours

On our second day in the Sierra Norte we decided to push ourselves and went for the longest route on the list. Apparently, it’s not often that the guides do this walk, usually people opt for the 3 or 5 hour walks. Trust us to be different!

The highlight of this walk was the viewpoint from which you could see for miles and miles, including a look at some of the other Pueblos Mancomunados. This hike was more advanced than the day before, there was a lot of scrambling over and under rocks, and to get to the viewpoint we had to to climb up a little way.

View of the Sierra Norte during Mirador Xi-Nudaa hike - Pueblos Mancomunados

This is the viewpoint during the Mirador Xi-Nudaa hike

We got to eat our lunch (we’d requested a packed lunch from the comedor by our cabana the night before) by the waterfalls. As we were visiting during the dry season they were unfortunately really small… but it did mean we didn’t have to take a rain jacket with us!

Apart from the stunning panoramic from the viewpoint , this hike wasn’t quite as interesting as the day before. We didn’t come across as many villagers or ranches, and the forest that we saw did become quite repetitive in places.

The evenings

Despite warm days, the evenings drop very cold in Cuajimoloyas, and we were very grateful for the open fireplace in our cabana to ward off the chill. We didn’t pay extra for access to WiFi, choosing to immerse ourselves in the experience. After lots of hiking, it was so cosy to sit in front of the fireplace, having nothing more to do than relax and watch the flames lick across the logs.

We had all of our meals at the closest comedor. The family were really sweet and their food, although simple, was delicious, traditional Oaxacan fayre. Our guide told us that the other comedors in the village were cheaper. For us however, the prices were really reasonable; per person, breakfast cost 50 pesos (£2), lunch cost 60 pesos (about £2.40) and dinner cost 50-60 pesos. We were always absolutely stuffed, and the prices included a hot drink. We couldn’t face more walking up and down hills and were happy to pay these ‘inflated’ prices.

Taking a breath

We really enjoyed our stay in the Sierra Norte, and would highly recommend getting off the beaten track to explore the Pueblos Mancomunados. Our stay gave us the opportunity to take a breath and just enjoy the beautiful nature around us.

While we would usually opt to hike independently, our guide was really knowledgeable and we were happy to know our money was going towards supporting the community. If you are in two minds, please be aware that the trails around Cuajimoloyas are not well signposted and in our opinion it would be quite easy to get lost.

How to organise your visit to the Pueblos Mancomunados

There are tourist agencies in Oaxaca who will organise your trip for you. For the privilege, they will charge you a lot of money and the villages will receive less compared to if you book directly through them.

We were travelling in a quieter period for the pueblos and so it was easy for us to just arrive in town and be able to get accommodation and a guide. If you travel in the high season, especially in July when they have their mushroom festival, you will need to check in advance. You can get in touch directly with the Pueblos Mancomunados by emailing cuaji_yaacuetzi@hotmail.com.

Our time was limited so we stuck to one place, but it is easy to walk between the different villages and spend time exploring each one. You could easily spend a week or more here!

In total, including accomodation, guide fees, food and transport, we spent around £25 each a day. We thought this was fantastic value!

Board with costings for hikes and accommodation in Cuajimoloyas

Here are the costs for the different accommodation options and guided walks (Mexican pesos). The guide fees are by group, not per person.

Oaxaca to Cuajimoloyas – Travel Directions

Step 1 – Oaxaca to Tlacolula

We got a collectivo, or shared taxi, from Oaxaca to Tlacolula, on the corner where Eduardo Vasconcelos intersects with Brazil (map). You can take any car going to Mitla and just let them know you want to get out early in Tlacolula. The journey costs 25 pesos (£1) per person and takes around 30-40 minutes.

Step 2 – Tlacolula to Cuajimoloyas

There are two transport terminals in Tlacolula, you want the white building across from the green PEMEX gas station on Juarez, not the main bus terminal (map). Walk to the back of the terminal yard and you will see a sign that says ‘Cuajimoloyas’.

Terminal building in Tlacolula where the Cuajimoloyas collectivos leave from

This is the terminal in Tlacolula where the collectivos to Cuajimoloyas leave from

Sign for Cuajimoloyas vehicles

Walk to the back of the yard and wait by the ‘Cuajimoloyas’ sign

From here, there doesn’t seems to be a timetable for departures, just sit on the bench and wait until the driver arrives. We waited for around one hour before the vehicle left at 12.15pm. The journey took around 50 minutes and cost 30 pesos per person. Our driver dropped us off outside the tourist information office in Cuajimoloyas from where we were easily able to organise our accommodation and hikes.

To return to Oaxaca from Cuajimoloyas, we pretty much did the above journey in reverse. It was a little confusing, several people told us there was a direct collectivo/bus to Oaxaca, but they always told us different details and we never saw any evidence of this. If you have better luck with this, please leave a comment so that we can let others know. We decided to change in Tlacolula as we knew this worked. We waited for the collectivo to Tlacolula across the street from the yellow public toilets, and next to Comedor Los Portales (map).

If you’re planning a trip to Oaxaca, take a look at our top things to do for inspiration! 

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Rainbow Mountain, Peru – Is it worth a visit? https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/02/17/rainbow-mountain-worth-it/ https://www.spudontherun.com/2018/02/17/rainbow-mountain-worth-it/#comments Sat, 17 Feb 2018 22:40:41 +0000 https://www.spudontherun.com/?p=940 Rainbow Mountain is fast becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations in Peru. Here we discuss whether it deserves the hype – is Rainbow Mountain worth a visit? We would say yes, but only if you combine it with a trip to the Red Valley!  Read on to find […]

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Rainbow Mountain is fast becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations in Peru. Here we discuss whether it deserves the hype – is Rainbow Mountain worth a visit? We would say yes, but only if you combine it with a trip to the Red Valley!  Read on to find out how. 

In the last couple of years, tourism to Vinicunca, often referred to as Rainbow Mountain, has exploded. The mountain got its nickname due to its mineral composition which creates seven different colours; for example the red is iron and the yellow is sulphur.

As I’ve mentioned in a previous blog, our plans for Cusco didn’t go quite as they were meant to. I had to spend an evening in hospital, and we struggled a lot more with the city’s altitude of 3400m than we had expected. Although we’ve spent a lot of our trip high in the Andes, our previous stop had been Mancora, at sea level, and our bodies were feeling the sudden lack of oxygen.

At its peak, Rainbow Mountain is over 5000m and we knew we needed to be in full fitness if we were going to make the most of it. We delayed booking the tour until we knew we we were ready.

Booking a tour to Rainbow Mountain and the Red Valley

All the tour operators across Cusco sell tours for around the same price, 70-75 soles (around £17-19). This is for a full day excursion, including breakfast and lunch, so it’s a pretty affordable option. It can be overwhelming trying to choose a company to go with, as they all seem to look the same, and offer the same.

As we wanted something quite specific, our options were narrowed down significantly. Most of the tours take you up to the summit of Rainbow Mountain, give you time to enjoy the view, and then return the same way. We wanted to do a loop, visiting Rainbow Mountain before walking back through the nearby Red Valley.

There really aren’t very many tour operators who go this way. After some research we finally found a company called Inka Time. For just 25 soles (around £5) more than the usual tours, we would get to see so much more. We went into their shop and signed up for the next day!

An early start

Our alarm woke us at 2.45am, giving us plenty of time to pack our day bags and have a warm cup of coca tea in preparation for the altitude.

Despite a relaxed, if not extremely early, start, our morning quickly turned into chaos. We were told that our tour would be with an Inka Time staff member, yet we were picked up (30 minutes late) by a third party on foot. The bus that was meant to pick us up was nowhere in sight, and we had to chase the staff member through the rain, along the slippy cobblestone roads. When we arrived in the centre of town, he told us to wait for a white Sprinter van, before running off without an explanation.

There were lots of tourist vehicles lined up along the street, but after enquiring with each one, none were for us. Becoming increasingly irate as the rain soaked us through, we rang the number that we had for Inka Time. They didn’t seem to know what was going on either, and told us to stay where we were.

We stood on the street for a good 20 minutes, totally confused. What should we do? Was he ever coming back? Had the van been and gone without us?

The journey to Rainbow Mountain

Eventually, a white Sprinter van full of people pulled up, and the guy we’d chased through the streets, reappeared. It was past 5am by this point, and we were understandably unimpressed. To make matters worse, there seemed to be some confusion over whether or not everyone was there. The staff member, who it turned out would be our guide for the day, spent a long time looking over his list of names and calling various ones out looking confused. No one else came, and eventually we set off.

Thankfully, the drive and our stop for breakfast went by without another hitch and we were at the entrance of Rainbow Mountain by about 9.30am.

Walking to Rainbow Mountain

The bus dropped us off in the car park, which sits at a height of 4480m. Although the path gently inclines for most of the way, the altitude makes what should be a fairly easy walk surprisingly tough.

The entrance of Rainbow Mountain
When you begin the walk, you are already at an altitude of 4480m

Every now and again we would stop and look around us as we caught our breath. The scenery, filled with crazy mountains and herds of alpacas, would be beautiful if it wasn’t for the line of tourists snaking their way past.

We are in good fitness, and had acclimatised well in Cusco before the hike. It took us around two hours to make our way up to the summit and we were there for 11.30am. Others in our group were slower, some faster. Ultimately, it isn’t a race and you have to be really careful of altitude sickness when you are hiking so high. We saw people of all ages struggling, and several didn’t get far before turning back to their buses.

As we walked we saw lots of horses for hire. Most of them were in terrible condition and if you visit we would strongly advise you not to use their services. By giving them money you are endorsing the cruelty of these animals.

The crowds walking to Rainbow Mountain
There is no chance of feeling lonley on the way to Rainbow Mountain. A constant stream of people and horses filed past us.

Closing in on the summit, I nearly stopped climbing all together. I was metres away from the end, but my lungs were rasping and it was becoming harder to walk. By the end of the climb, I was pretty sure that I must have collected stones in my shoes on the way up, as my feet felt like dead-weights at the ends of my legs. Phil had to give me a mental push to not give up!

If you ignore the hundreds of other tourists, the view from the summit is amazing. Unfortunately, Vinicunca itself is pretty disappointing. We could just about make out four of the seven colours that are meant to be there. We fast realised that the photos we had previously seen of the mountain had been highly filtered – naturally the colours aren’t that vivid. If it hadn’t been for the crowd of people with their selfie sticks, we might have missed it completely.

A mass of people walking up to the summit of Rainbow Mountain
The crowds make their way up to the summit of Rainbow Mountain
Is Rainbow Mountain worth it? At the summit
Here we are trying to unsucessfully dodge the crowds to take a photo with Rainbow Mountain.

Finally, we made our way over the ridge to the edge of the Red Valley. Regardless of whether you are walking through the valley or not, there is a 5 soles fee for access to the viewpoint, which is also the start of the next part of the walk. There were a couple of guys waiting on the path to take our money.

The ridge to Red Valley
This is the ridge that you need to walk across to get to the Red Valley viewpoint

When we got there, the scenery took away what little breath we had left. It was almost like looking down upon Mars. The wild red mountains in front of us was so much more vibrant than the colours of the famous Rainbow Mountain.

The Red Valley

While we waited at the viewpoint, where the next part of our hike would begin, the clouds were rolling in thick and fast. By the time our guide and group had assembled, we were being assaulted by hail. There were eight in our group, the others from our bus were all returning the way they had come on the standard tour. At this point, I think several of us were seriously considering joining them.

The first part of the walk came in equal parts of awesome and terrifying. There was no path, just a red downward slope in from of us. Due to the red clay, which is almost like sand, there was nowhere to get a grip with your feet. Using the wooden walking stick (provided by our guide) as a steer, we each slide quickly down into the valley.

Sliding into the Red Valley
Sliding down the clay mountainside into the Red Valley.

From this point, the hike was relatively easy going. Due to our initial descent, we weren’t plagued as much by the altitude. Surprisingly, the clouds parted around forty minutes later, allowing the sun to shine into the valley.

During the three hour hike, we only came across one other tour group, which was in vast contrast to the first part of our day. At times it felt like we were true adventurers, the first to discover the land since the time of the Incas.

Along the route we saw lots of agricultural terraces, which had been built into the mountainside by the Incas. Many are still maintained and are used for growing potatoes. We even saw one father and son combo working to plant new crops.

Planting new potatoes in the Red Valley
As we were walking in the Red Valley we saw a father and son planting new potatoes

Through the centre of the valley snakes a stream which runs red from the clay. In places the stream is filtered by rocks and forms wonderful blue pools of water, their colour contrasts violently with the red of the clay mountains and the vibrant green grass and moss. The vegetation is high in nutrients, and farmers graze their alpaca and llama herds here.

Pools of water form in the Red Valley
The colours of the Red Valley are so vivid!
A mother and baby alpaca grazing in the Red Valley
Herds of llamas and alpacas graze in the nutrient rich Red Valley

Sadly, by 3.30pm our walk had come to an end. We finished at the point where we’d had breakfast just a few hours before, and where we were to have lunch with the rest of our bus. The place was nothing fancy, a single room with long tables, attached to someone’s tiny home. The building belongs to a small village, made up of around ten or fifteen different houses, several of which cater to the tourist groups.

After we had all eaten, we got back on the bus and headed for Cusco. After the early start and intense exercise, most of us were asleep within minutes.

So, is Rainbow Mountain worth it?

Honestly, we would say … no! Here’s why:

  • The whole walk and the summit were crawling with people. When we got to the top we were wading through the crowds, and it was next to impossible to stand still long enough for a photo without someone trying to push you out of the way.
  • If you search for Rainbow Mountain, you will see a vast array of brightly coloured photos. Sadly, most of them have been filtered so much that they are beyond recognition when you see the real thing.
  • If you are travelling through the Andes you will see many brightly coloured mountains due to the insane amount of volcanoes in this part of the world. It’s their ancient (and not so ancient) activity that has caused the high density of minerals to occur. Most of them will be sighted through the window of your bus, without a breath-stealing hike necessary.
  • We got the impression that most of the tour companies running trips to Rainbow Mountain are pretty pants. It’s just not worth the hassle of dealing with them.

HOWEVER! Having said this, it IS worth going to Rainbow Mountain on your way to the Red Valley. It is worth the trek up to 5000m to descend through such incredible beauty.

Would we recommend Inka Time?

Usually, after such a bad experience, we would say avoid Inka Time, the tour operator that we used. Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, there aren’t that many tour operators who currently go to the Red Valley. Shop around and see what other companies are running this tour, and be prepared to go with Inka Time if necessary. After talking to other travellers, we have a sneaking suspicion that they are all as bad as each other.

Let’s recap why they were terrible:

  • We were picked up later than scheduled, with no apology.
  • We had to walk to the pick up point, after being told when we booked that the bus would come to us.
  • Once our guide had come to pick us up, we were left in the rain in central Cusco. Our guide had run off into the darkness of the early morning and our vehicle was nowhere to be scene.
  • We had been told our tour would be with an Inka Time staff member. Our group was made up of customers from a range of tour operators, and I’m not sure what company our guide was working for, but it wasn’t Inka Time.
  • The guide was completely disinterested in our group. He just came across as really annoyed for having to walk the extra miles through the Red Valley.
  • Despite the high altitude we weren’t given a safety briefing about what to do if we began to feel ill on the hike. Oxygen was meant to be available if required, but I wouldn’t have known what to do or where to go for it.
  • During the Red Valley part of the hike, the guide often rushed off ahead, refusing to wait for the slower members of the group.

In summary we would say that isn’t worth dealing with a rubbish company purely for Rainbow Mountain, but it is to be able to experience the Red Valley! We can’t recommend this experience enough.

Are you travelling to Machu Picchu next? Check out our posts Machu Picchu – A visit to The Lost City of the Incas and How to plan a DIY trip to Machu Picchu for inspiration and guidance.  You can also take a look at all of our Peru blog posts if you aren’t sure what to do next.

Have you visited Rainbow Mountain and/or the Red Valley? Let us know about your experience and if you have any recommendations for tour companies in the comments below.

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